Have you dreamed of watching your future goats hop and play? Want fresh goats milk, but Not sure where to start with goats? ...well this post is for you.
First and foremost, goats are social creatures. They are herd animals and have a rough time being alone. Unlike that solitary dairy cow, goats need other goats. If you're planning for goats, plan to get at least 2.
Second, figure out your purpose for them. Are you wanting milk? Meat? Or maybe you just want a pet.
Let's talk breeds...
I raise mini Nubian goats which are a cross between standard Nubians and Nigerian Dwarf goats. Both have higher buttermilk than other dairy breeds with Nigerian having the highest. Because of this cross, you get volume from the Nubian side and butterfat from the Nigerian resulting in super creamy, sweet milk. If you've ever had pasteurized goat milk, then you need to etch-a-sketch that awful memory and taste fresh goats milk. I prefer it over cows milk which can taste very grassy to me.
If you have a small property, then consider Nigerian Dwarf goats over their larger counterparts. They produce super sweet milk though you may not get as much as a larger breed. They don't require as much space either. I have found that they are much more curious than the minis and will attempt escape more often (even though they don't go far).
Other dairy breeds include Oberhasli, Toggenburg, Alpine, Lamancha & Golden Guernsey. Read more about each breed on ADGA.org.
There are meat breeds as well, some of which include Boer, Savannahs, Kiko, & Pygmy. I have been told that Nigerians are also good for meat and we're compared to grass-fed beef. For now, I'll just take that in and not figure it our for myself.
If your heart is set on a pet goat, breed doesn't matter too too much, although I'm partial to the minis, Nigerians and Pygmys make great pets too. I suggest getting a wether which is a castrated male goat. Their nutritional requirement isn't as steep as a breeding doe but you will have to make sure they get a 2:1 calcium:phosphorus ratio to prevent urinary calculi.
Now that you know about breeds, let's talk buying. When looking for goats online, always ask if you can visit the farm. It's a huge red flag if someone wants a deposit without offering for you to see the animal. I strongly suggest to find a clean-tested farm. That means the animals have been tested for the top three goat diseases namely Caprine Arthritic Encephalitis, Gaseous Lymphaditis, & Johnnes. Further, if planning to milk, ask if the animals were tested for Q Fever & Brucellosis. A lot of farmers only test a portion of their herd because these tests can get costly, but even that is well worth it.
If a farmer isn't willing to answer goat related questions or offer advice, run away. The market is flooded with fly by night breeders that really only care about money. While you may be jazzed about getting a deal on a goat, you'll more than likely end up fighting an uphill battle with malnourished and parasitic goats. While most goats have some load of parasites (as do we), management is key. High quality minerals, good quality hay and prevention is super important. I truly believe that health starts with minerals. If goats get mineral deficient, then their parasite load tends to increase which often leads to illness. I use antiparasitic herbs as a preventative, and use a high copper mineral blend plus a mineral paste monthly. My goats get horse quality alfalfa, non-sprayed grass hay, and does in milk get a non soy grain.
A healthy goat will have bright red famacha. Famacha is a score based on the color of their inner eyelid. Bright, dark red is a 5 and pale white is a 0 (trust me, you don't want to see pale white). It's based on the theory that their anemia level will reflect in their eyelids so goats with high parasite loads (therefore high anemia) will have very pale famacha, and healthy goats with low parasite loads (and low anemia) will have red famacha.
A healthy goats coat should be smooth and shiny. Hair that is sticking out or growing in odd directions usually signals a mineral deficiency. Zinc and Copper are two very important minerals in goats followed closely by Selenium. Zinc also helps goats maintain good hooves. Hooves should be trimmed regularly and hoof walls (the outside of their hooves) should not be overgrown as this encourages hoof rot.
Goats are curious by nature and their eyes reflect that. Their eyes should be bright and clear. Any cloudiness or weeping is a sign of infection. Their pupils should adjust quickly to changes in light as well.
Their tails also say a lot about their health. A full tail signals a healthy goat. If their tails look like a fish tail, they are mineral deficient. Bald tails are a sign of mites (usually from mineral deficiency) or other skin condition.
You also want to look for full bodies. If you can see ribs, chances are that goat isn't getting adequate nutrition. Feel along their spines. If you feel vertebrae, that goat is under-nourished. It takes a lot of nutrition to keep a milking doe in condition. Not only is she feeding her babies, but you are taking extra milk. Does in milk need alfalfa to maintain calcium for milk production (or else their bodies will draw from bones and deplete their stores) as well as added carbs from grain. I've run the gamut of grain mixes, from organic DIY to grain milled to bagged, and I personally use organic alfalfa, Kalmbach Goat Granola (soy free), and organic oats now.
Bottom line, always ask questions and put your eyes on an animal before deciding the price is too high (or low). Things to look for in a healthy goat are smooth, shiny coats, bright eyes, bright red famacha, full tails, healthy hooves, and full bodies.